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Photography tip: Photos through glassPosted Dec 22, 2007 by carl in JAlbum news  There are technical challenges involved in photographing mannequins, or any other subject, through store-front windows. They include loss of image sharpness due to uneven glass, a "muddy" appearance of the final image due to windows that haven't been washed, but the major problem is reflection. If you take a photograph through a window you will often get the reflection of whatever is across the street. To combat this, I use two different methods to reduce window glare: 1. Buy a Polarizing filter. This "magic" filter, if used correctly, can almost entirely eradicate window reflection (but not so much direct sun glare). The only catch is that you need to be photographing at a 45 degree angle to the glass for it to be really effective. With the filter on the lens, compose the photo so that you are looking at the subject at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the surface of the window. Now experiment with the polarizing filter by rotating it. You will see in real time the reflections begin to disappear as the filter is rotated, and then reappear as the rotation is completed. Take your picture at the rotation point that provides the most glare reduction. 2. A cheaper and quicker option, but somewhat limiting with regards to composition, is to simply place your camera lens directly on the window glass. Further, if you are wearing gloves, or have a scarf, wrap it around the front of your lens so that very little outdoor light is entering the small space between the lens and the window pane. You will see that all glare has been removed, and you can take your picture. This technique is also very effective when you see a nice sunset while flying on an airplane. Place the camera lens against the window, cover the lens with a fabric if necessary, and you will get a better image. When photographing through department store windows using the second method, move along quickly after you get the shot, as security guards will be very uneasy seeing someone place a camera directly against the window pane. Always turn off your on-camera flash, as it will create even more glare. Remember to look outside the box when choosing subject matter, and if everybody is taking a certain photo or working within prescribed photographic boundaries, you will serve yourself far better by making your own path. Thanks to professional photographer Mark Hemmings (www.markhemmings.com) for writing this photo tip.
Photography tip: Flowing water photosPosted Dec 18, 2007 by carl in JAlbum news 
Including flowing water in a photograph will add a sense of time and calm, if done with a slow shutter speed. No doubt you have seen countless waterfall photos where the water flows like silk down the rocks. I took this photo in a mountain hot spring town near Mt. Fuji, Japan. Because many temples and gardens in Japan have flowing water, it is an ideal location for such images. If you have tried similar shots, but only ended up with harsh rushing water, try the following techniques: 1. Place your camera on a solid tripod, and compose the photo. If you have a cable or remote shutter release, this is the time to use it, as it will keep your non-moving picture elements sharp (background, rocks, etc.). 2. If you have a camera that will allow for manual exposure, set the camera to Aperture Priority ("A" symbol for most cameras . . . check your user manual). Change the aperture (or f-stop) to the biggest number possible, which is usually 16 or 22. If you have a neutral density or polarizing filter, adding it to the lens will give you a greater effect of smooth flowing water. You are now ready to take the picture. 3. If you have an automatic point and shoot camera, go to a local camera store and purchase a neutral density or polarizing filter. It will be gray in color, and will allow for longer exposure times (thus giving a softer flow of water). Switch your settings to the mountain, or scenic icon, which will slow the shutter speed even more. Hold the filter over your lens, and with your camera on the tripod, take the photo. The length of your exposure will be dependent on the brightness of the day. 4. Hints: the brighter the day, the shorter the exposure, which means less flow effect. To this end, overcast days will produce better results. Also, if you are using a polarizing filter, you will get interesting variations on the photo by simply rotating the filter. Ask for a demonstration at your local camera store.
Thanks to professional photographer Mark Hemmings (www.markhemmings.com) for writing this photo tip.
JAlbum lovePosted Dec 14, 2007 by carl in JAlbum news  We are amazed of the support we get from our users. JAlbum would never be what it is today without all dedicated users. Just take a look at the contribution from Hervé, a french speaking user: An introduction to JAlbum 7.4 in French
We can't thank you enough.
JAlbum + Google MapsPosted Dec 10, 2007 by carl in JAlbum news
PositionMap was the first JAlbum skin which built photo albums with Google Maps integrated. This allowed viewers to see where the pictures were taken on a map within the album. Two more skins have so far added this functionality, NospOfToml and Chameleon. Gero Vermaas, a dedicated JAlbum user has made an even tighter integration with Chameleon, have a look at this:
Want to know how he did this? Read his recent blog post "Having fun with Google Maps and JAlbum/Chameleon skin"
JAlbum 7.4 releasedPosted Dec 6, 2007 by carl in JAlbum news I'm really glad to announce that JAlbum 7.4 is out
JAlbum 7.4 has these improvements:
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. Yu Naito, a Japanese user also chipped in with a 
. Lately, we have also seen a lot of great updates to existing skins and new skins added to the selection on jalbum.net. Have a look at 
